Today we went to the north shore. A drive up hill as well. Where we are staying is lush and feels like a little oasis but the west side of the island is the dry side. And hot.
Going up in altitude transformed the scenery with lush ironwood and eucalyptus forests all around. At the ‘top’ and end of the road is the lookout over the Kalaupapa Peninsula. The lookout is 1700ft high and wow, so much cooler! But a spectacular place. The view to the peninsula is a sobering reminder that there are only 2 ways to get there: by sea or, after 1907, a 3 mile nail biting trail with 26 switchbacks and 1,200 irregular stair steps hand carved into the hillside by a Portuguese immigrant who, in order to do this work had to be suspended from ropes over the hill. NO THANK YOU.
So by sea then. The remote and restricted access made this the place to house the burgeoning population of (mostly but not only) Hawaiians who had contracted leprosy or Hansen’s disease. First noted on the island in the 1830’s, native Hawaiians had no immunity to the diseases that were introduced, including this one. In 20’s years, the rates spread significantly and most families had at least one member who was affected. Police were required to arrest those suspected of having the illness.
A brief crash course in Hansen’s: caused by a bacteria, it can take years to show symptoms and is very hard to contract. This bacteria attacks the nerves, destroying them, which results in vision loss, neuropathy of hands and feet and bone destruction. So you burn your hand but since you can’t feel it because of nerve loss, it’s worse than for you or me. And the wounds get infected and fingers/toes etc get amputated. It’s the progressive nerve damage and the resultant sequelae that kills you, and can take years. BUT, don’t forget that many other conditions result in sores or digit loss. So many people who didn’t have Hansen’s were also swept up in this system.
Beginning in 1866, and in effect for 103 years, the Kalaupapa peninsula was the designated spot for effectively isolating and abandoning these poor people at least for Hawaii. They were dropped off on the north west side of the peninsula and had to find their own way to the settlement on the western side. Gee thanks. Father Damien and others aided them.
Hawai’i’s Isolation policy was not abolished until 1969. I would note that the cure for Hansen’s was found in 1941, and so the forced isolation continued far longer than needed. This area is now still restricted there are a few people who still choose to live there and this is to protect their privacy. The land is owned by the National Park Service.
On the way down from this overlook, we stopped at a museum which had many photographs of people who lived there, and more in a short film. The film seeks to remind us of these people’s humanity, and that they are so much more than a label. Sobering but powerful indeed.
Comments
Post a Comment